Coffee Table with Nesting Ottoman (Day 3)

In this episode of the DIY Coffee Table Series, it's time to answer the age old question: coffee table? Or ottoman? The answer is YES. With this coffee table plan you get the best of both worlds! It has a hidden ottoman that slides out when you need it and tucks away when you don't. You'll always have a hard surface for cups and snacks, plus that comfy upholstered top for extra seating or just putting your feet up.

Don't need both pieces? Either one works beautifully on it's own, too!



Measure twice, cut once (seriously, though). Use glue in every step (be careful to clean up any drips, because they can mess up your finish at the end!). Read through all the instructions before you begin. Use 1 1/4"" screws unless otherwise indicated. Pre-drill and countersink all your screws. Be safe, have fun, and let me know if you have any questions! Please note I have not built from these plans myself (you might be the first!), so double check everything as you go.

Shopping List:
7  -  2x2s  @  8' long
1  -  4'x8' sheet 3/4" plywood
1 piece of 4" thick foam 34 x 31"
1.5 yards batting (at least 45" wide)
1.5 yards fabric (at least 45" wide)
heavy duty stapler
2" wood screws
optional: Kreg Jig + 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
optional: 1 1/4" pocket hole screws
optional: finishing nails 
optional: plywood edge banding 
wood glue
wood filler
sanding and finishing supplies

Finished Dimensions for the table: 36" x 36" x 18" high
Finished Dimensions for the ottoman: 34" x 31" x 14 3/4" high

You can leave the ottoman unupholstered and have a second tabletop instead. 

I honestly wouldn't mess with the height of this one too much unless you really need a different height. You'll need to adjust the legs, the angled pieces, and make sure the ottoman still fits under the table. 

You can adjust the length by increasing or decreasing the length of the top/bottom boards and plywood by the same amount (i.e. add 5" to all of those boards to make a longer table/ottoman).

You can adjust the width by increasing or decreasing the length of the support boards and plywood for the same amount (i.e. subtract 10" from all those boards to make a narrower bench-style table).

Table Cut List:
(A)  4  -  2x2  @  17 1/4"  (legs)
(B)  4  -  2x2  @  33"  (top/bottom)
(C)  4  -  2x2  @  16 7/16"  (angled trim)
(D)  3  -  2x2  @  33"  (supports)
(E)  1  -  plywood  @  36x36"  (top)

Ottoman Cut List:
(F)  4  -  2x2  @ 10"  (legs)
(G)  4  -  2x2  @ 31"  (top/bottom)
(H)  4  -  2x2  @ 8 1/16"  (angled trim)
(I)  3  -  2x2  @ 28"  (supports)
(J)  1  -  plywood @  34 x 31"  (top)

Start by attaching the table legs (A) to the ends of the top/bottom boards (B). If you have a Kreg Jig, make pocket holes in the ends of the top/bottom boards and attach them with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. No Kreg Jig? No problem. Drill through outside face of each leg into the ends of the top/bottom boards with 2" wood screws.

Cut the top and bottom of the angled supports (C) at a 30 degree angle. Make sure the ends are cut parallel. Note the total length of each side from angle-to-angle should be 16 7/16". It's not the total length of the board to the longest points, but the length of each side. Line up the angled boards inside the frames you just build and slide them all the way against the bottom  corners. You can attach it with pocket holes in the ends of the angled boards and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, or drill through the top and bottom boards into the ends of the angled board with 2" screws. Don't forget the glue, peeps.

Repeat to build a second side section.

Connect the two side sections together with the support boards (D). Put one support at each end and one centered with 15 3/4" space on either side. You can use a Kreg Jig to make pocket holes in the ends of the support boards and attach them 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, you can drill through the outside face of the top boards, into the ends of the support boards.

Attach the top (E). I'll give you three options for how to do this:

1. Flip the table over and drill through the top and support boards into the tabletop. Be sure to get several screws through each board. This will give you a nice sturdy table and doesn't require any special tools! However, you must be careful not to drill all the way through the top board.
2. Use a Kreg Jig at the 3/4" wood setting to drill pocket holes along the support and top boards. Then use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to attach the tabletop. This also gives a nice sturdy hold.
3. You also have the option to use finishing nails to nail it down into the support and top boards. This is fast and easy, but you'll be left with small nail holes in the top to fill and sand and nails may not hold as well over time (although glue will help with that).

The table is built! But before you finish it, I'd go ahead and build the base of the ottoman so you can finish them both at once.

For the ottoman, begin by attaching the legs (F) to the ends of the top/bottom boards (G). If you have a Kreg Jig, make pocket holes in the ends of the top/bottom boards and attach them with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. No Kreg Jig? No problem. Drill through outside face of each leg into the ends of the top/bottom boards with 2" wood screws.

Cut the top and bottom of the angled supports (H)) at a 30 degree angle. Make sure the ends are cut parallel. Note the total length of each side from angle-to-angle should be 8 1/16". It's not the total length of the board to the longest points, but the length of each side. Line up the angled boards inside the frames you just build and slide them all the way against the bottom  corners. You can attach it with pocket holes in the ends of the angled boards and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, or drill through the top and bottom boards into the ends of the angled board with 2" screws. Don't forget the glue, peeps.

Repeat to build a second side section.

Connect the two side sections together with the support boards (I). Put one support at each end and one centered with 14 3/4" space on either side. You can use a Kreg Jig to make pocket holes in the ends of the support boards and attach them 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, you can drill through the outside face of the top boards, into the ends of the support boards. There should be a center support, too, even though the picture doesn't show it. My bad, guys.

Now you can go ahead and finish this base and the table you already built. It will be easier to finish the base before the upholstered section is attached. If you're skipping the upholstery and doing a second regular tabletop, go ahead and attach the plywood top now before you finish it.

To finish, fill any visible holes with wood filler then sand everything down really well. This is the most important step for a professional finish! Start with a rough sand paper, then go over everything with a medium paper, then again with a fine paper. Once it's super smooth, finish it with whatever paint or stain and sealer you like. Also note that the edges of plywood will not take stain or paint as well. It's a more obvious difference with stain, but even with paint the edges probably won't quite match the rest of the table. You can solve this problem by applying 3/4" plywood edge banding. It's usually an iron-on strip of thin wood that will stain to match the plywood top. Honestly, though, I usually just roll with the regular plywood edge and it doesn't bother me. But be warned, if you're a bit of a perfectionist you'll probably want the edge banding. All hearts clear? Ok, let's go ahead with the upholstery:

You can buy a piece of foam at Joann fabric, or some people have had good luck buying a foam mattress or mattress topper for less $$ and cutting it down to size.

Start a stack on the ground with your fabric (face-down), topped with the batting, topped with the piece of foam, topped with the plywood (J). Wrap the batting up onto the plywood, pulling it taught, and staple it in place. Then wrap the fabric up over the batting and staple it in place. You can also tuft the upholstery like I did way back when I built our headboard.

Set the upholstered top on the ottoman base (remember to finish the base with paint or stain first!) and attach it by drilling up through the supports and top boards into the plywood with 2" screws. No glue, peeps. If you ever decide to change the upholstery you can just remove these screws, pull the old fabric off, and replace it. You could also use a Kreg Jig set to 3/4" thickness to drill pocket holes along the supports and side boards.

All done.

Push the ottoman underneath the coffee table, and pull it out whenever you need it.

I love to see your finished projects! Tag me on instagram @more.like.home or share them on our facebook page!

Want more plans? Check out the rest of the coffee table series here and all our other building plans here!