How to Build a Simple Outhouse

This step by step woodworking project is about how to build a simple outhouse. I have built this simple and temporarily outhouse for my countryside property. This is super easy to build and it cost me under $150 to make. I built this project in about one week, but I only worked a few hours a day. This is Episode 3 of a long series of projects I plan to build for this property, so feel free to come back to see the progress. See the rest of the countryside projects HERE. This project only requires common materials and super basic tools, so anyone can get the job done in one weekend. Make sure you check out all my other DIY tutorials HERE.

We recommend you to invest in the best materials you could afford. Therefore, you should buy weather-resistant lumber, such as pine or cedar. Always take accurate measurements before adjusting the size of the components at the proper size. Drill pilot holes trough the components before inserting the wood screws, to prevent the wood from splitting. See all my Premium Plans HERE.

Made from this plan

Simple Outhouse Plans

Building a simple outhouse

If you want to build this outhouse, then this is your lucky day. I have free plans that you can print or download on MyOutdoorPlans.com. Check out the step by step plans HERE.

How to build a simple outhouse

Base-frame

The first step of the outhouse project was to assemble the base. I cut the 4×4 beams at the right dimensions, I drilled pilot holes and then inserted the 6″ screws. Make sure the corners are square are align the edges flush.

As you can see in the image, you also need to dig the 2-3′ deep hole for the outhouse. Considering this will be a temporarily outhouse, I decided not to pour concrete or to fit a plastic barrel. However, if you plan on using the outhouse for a larger period of time, I really suggest you document on the subject and to choose the right solution for your needs.

Fitting-the-slats-to-the-base

Use a spirit level to check if the base frame is horizontal on all directions. Align the base over the hole and then attach the boards into place. Drill pilot holes and insert the screws to lock the slats into place.

Back-wall-frame

Build the back wall frame from 2×2 lumber. Cut all the components and then drill pilot holes through the plates. Insert 2 1/2″ screws to secure the studs to the plates. Make sure the edges are aligned and double check if the corners are square.

Fitting-the-back-wall

Fit the back wall frame to the base and align the edges. Use a spirit level to plumb the frame, drill pilot holes through the bottom plates and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the wall into place.

Braces

I continued the project by fitting the front wall frame, using the same techniques described above. As you can see in the image, I used some temporarily braces so I can secure the walls tightly while fitting the side supports.

Outhouse-frame

Once the wall frames were installed, the outhouse started to take shape. But we’re not quite there yet. A lot more work ahead.

Attaching-the-slats-to-the-back-of-the-outhouse

Moving the back of the outhouse, I installed the tongue and groove boards to the frame. I just aligned the edges and then used nails to lock the boards into place tightly.

Framing-the-seat

Next, I built the seat frame from 2×2 lumber. I aligned everything with attention, drilled pilot holes and inserted 2 1/2″ screws to lock the supports into place tightly.

Fitting-the-slats-to-the-sides-of-the-outhouse

Next, I attached the boards to the sides of the outhouse, this time vertically. I aligned the boards to the top and fitted them one by one.

Fitting-the-rafters

I fitted the 2×2 rafters to the top of the outhouse frame. Align the rafters so you get a more generous overhang to the front. Drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws to lock the rafters into place tightly.

Fitting-the-slats-to-the-roof

I fitted the boards to the rafters. I will install a plastic roof sheet so I needed to create some support underneath it. I used my drill to insert the screws through the boards into the rafters.

Outhouse-roof-frame

You might notice that the middle rafter is not perfectly centered into place. There is a simple reason for that. In my case I used materials I already had around, so I had to adjust the location of the middle rafter accordingly. The middle rafter is where the boards join together. If you buy the lumber, center the middle rafter into place.

Fitting-the-slats-to-the-seat-frame

Next, I attached the tongue and groove boards to the front of the seat frame. I cut the boards and then used nails to secure them into place tightly.

Fitting-the-slats-to-the-top-of-the-seat-frame

I attached the slats to the top of the seat frame, as well. As you can see in the image, you need to create a hole through the top, so you can fit the toilet seat.

Fitting-the-toilet-seat

Fit the toilet seat and mark the cut lines to the slats. I really recommend you to adjust the size of the seat frame to the dimensions of the plastic cover you are going to use. My plans were designed for my needs and for the products I bought, so you might need to make a few changes.

Cutting-the-toilet-hole

Use a jigsaw to make the curved cuts and then smooth the edges with a sander.

Toilet-seat

Install the toilet seat to the top, making sure you read the manufacturer’s instructions.

Painting-the-outhouse

I applied a few coats of white paint over the exterior of the outhouse. I also painted the roof trims blue. Two coats were enough to cover the surface evenly.

Fitting-the-door-panel

Building the door for the simple wooden outhouse was a straight forward job. I used 1×4 lumber for the trims and used pocket holes to lock them together tightly. Then, I attached the tongue and groove boards to the frame with nails.

Outhouse-Door

I painted the door frame blue before attaching the boards to the back.

Fitting-the-door-to-the-outhouse

I fitted the door to the opening and use hinges to secure it to the front wall frame. Everything went smoothly, as I let gaps on all side of the door. I also installed the latch and the corner brackets to enhance the rigidity of the door.

Using-masking-tape-to-paint-the-door-panels

Next, I used masking tape to cover the door frame while painting the panels white. Everything went great, so I am really pleased with the end result.

DIY-Simple-Outhouse

Fitting-the-roofing-sheet

One of the last steps of the project was to waterproof the outhouse by attaching the roof sheet. Align the edges with attention and then drive the screws in.

Roof-screws

I used 3/4″ roof screws to secure the sheet to the slats.

DIY-Outhouse—Back-view

How-to-build-an-outhouse

Overall, this was simple project but it took longer than I’ve anticipated, due to the weather conditions. I am so pleased with the end result that I consider transforming the outhouse into a garden shed, once I no longer need it. If you like my project, don’t forget to SHARE it on Facebook and Pinterest.

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