So first things first, we need to hack this sweet X Bench. Finished dimensions will be 48" long x 18.5" tall x 14" deep. Here's what you need:
2 - 2x2 @ 8' long
1 - 1x2 @ 8' long
1 - 1x2 @ 6' long
2 - 1x4 @ 8' long
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
2 1/2" pocket hole screws
wood glue
*if you don't have a Kreg Jig, you can get by with regular 1 1/4" and 2" screws and a countersink bit, and some finishing nails.
Measure twice, cut once. Use glue in every step. Read through all the instructions before you begin. Be safe, have fun, and let me know if you have any questions!
Cut List:
A) 4 - 2x2 @ 17.75" (legs)
B) 2 - 2x2 @ 11" (side top)
C) 2 - 1x2 @ 11 (side bottom)
D) 2 - 1x2 @ 17 1/16 (X long)
E) 4 - 1x2 @ 7.75" (X short)
F) 2 - 2x2 @ 45" (front/back trim)
G) 4 - 1x2 @ 11" (seat supports)
H) 4 - 1x4 @ 48" (seat)
You'll actually want to start by cutting your seat boards (H). You'll lose up to 1/8" of length when you cut through your 8' board, so you'll actually end up with boards ever so slightly shorter than a full 48". This will be important later. Go ahead and attach the boards together side by side using the 1 1/4" pocket screws and Kreg Jig. Don't forget the glue. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, just cut the boards and then move to the next step.
Now you can start assembling the sides of the bench. Take two legs (A) and connect them together by attaching the side top board (B) between them using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws . It should be flush with the top and sides of the legs. If you're using a Kreg Jig to attach the top, drill pocket holes in these boards before you install them
Then attach the bottom side board (C) with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. It should be set up 2 3/8" from the bottom of the legs. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, drill through the legs into the ends of the side pieces and attach them with 2" screws.
Next are the long leg of the X (D). Cut the ends of each board at a 45 degree angle so it looks like this (the cut ends should be parallel).
Install the long X with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, keeping it flush with the outside face of the legs. Or drill through the legs into the ends of the X board with 2" screws.
Cut one end of each short X board (E) at a 45" angle, then install one on each side of the long X board as shown below. Use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, keeping them flush withe the outside face of the legs. Repeat these steps to build the other side section. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, attached the angled end by drilling through the legs into the boards with 2" screws. The flat ends that meet the other X board will be trickier - you'll have to put finishing nails through the short boards at an angle into the long board. It might take a couple tries to get them at the right angle to catch the long board without going all the way through.
Connect the two leg sections using the front/back trim boards (F). First go back and measure your seat boards. You want the finished length of the bench frame to match, so if your seat is 1/16 - 1/8" under 48", you'll want to cut these boards 1/16 - 1/8" shorter than 45" to match the seat boards. Got it? Then go ahead and install the boards flush with the top and outside edges of the leg sections with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. If you're using a Kreg Jig to attach the top, drill pocket holes in these boards before you install them. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, drill through the legs into the ends of the trim boards with 2" screws.
Install the support boards (G) between the front/back trim boards. You don't need to measure exactly, just keep them straight and space them pretty evenly. Use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. If you're using a Kreg Jig to attach the top, drill pocket holes in these boards before you install them. Or drill through the trim boards into the ends of each support board with 2" screws.
Now you can install the seat. It should end up flush with the sides of the legs and the front/back trim. Use a few pocket holes in each support board, the front/back trim, and the top side pieces with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.
If you don't have a Kreg Jig, line the boards up side-by-side on top of the bench. Attach them in place by either drilling down through the seat into the supports, sides, front, and back, or attach it in those places with finishing nails. Screws will be more durable, but nails will be much less obvious in your finished project.
Fill any holes in your bench with wood filler (if you're planning to stain it, make sure you get a stainable filler!). Let it dry, then sand everything nice and smooth. Sanding makes a huge difference in the details of your final product - a well sanded piece can look professionally made! Then finish your piece with any paint or stain and polyurethane you like!
Now that you have your spiffy X Entry Bench, you can finish off the look with just a few key details.
The inspiration photo is actually an ad from Walls Need Love removable wallpaper, so their pixel diamond paper featured in the photo seems like a good place to start!
Add a fiddle leaf fig plant to give the space some life and greenery. I've been pining for a fiddle leaf fig for years (ever since I first saw one on Young House Love), but I had only seen large ones that cost about $100 each. But guys, I just found out you can get little ones at Home Depot for $30. I think it's time. Tuck your little tree in a banana leaf basket to add some texture.
Finally, soften things up with a beautiful buffalo check blanket. You can get a 100% lambs wool stunner from Faribault Mill. Or for a more budget friendly option, grab some buffalo check fleece from Joann Fabric for just $5.50/yard (it's even less if you use a coupon!) and snip along the ends to create a faux-tassle.
I'll leave you with a little more fiddle leaf inspiration, and a list of some of the other best trees for indoor use if the fig isn't your style.
And don't forget to check out the rest of our Friday Hacks! Happy Friday!
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